8/28/2017 1 Comment Sightseeing in Agra - Swan ToursThe citizens of Agra lived near the fort, outside Delhi Gate (now closed) on the north side. Court patronage abounded, crafts flourished and Agra became a major Centre for textiles and jewelry as well as banking and trade. Although starved of court patronage when the Mughals declined, the city continued to thrive at a quieter level and still does today. A stroll around these lanes brings alive the atmosphere of Mughal Agra. If you get lost, it does not matter much as the area is quite small; but enlist some local help to seek out specific craftsmen. By exploring through a grand old gateway, you may discover Mughal hamams (baths) now used as vegetable storehouses; by peeking through doorways into havelis (courtyard houses), you may see a busy atelier of marble inlay works; by looking behind a shop, you may discover a forgotten Mughal noble's mansion. While on Golden Triangle tour package covering Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, the tour highlights of Agra would be as below: The Jama Masjid (Friday mosque, 1648) is the heart of the old city, in Mantola area, its zigzag red and white domes rising above the lanes. It was built by Shah Jahan in the name of his favorite and loyal daughter, Jahanara. Beside its main entrance stands Agra's one forgivable tourist shop, Mughal Marble Emporium, which stocks splendidly gaudy replicas of the Taj made of soapstone with red and yellow plastic trees, fairy lights and glass baubles, each scene enclosed in a glass box. Opposite, the pot-seller's kiosk overflows onto the road. These beautiful spherical water-pots are natural fridges which keep water cool and fresh but apparently only do their job for a few weeks, keeping their sellers in good business. The cloth market runs round behind the mosque, bustling with ladies bargaining for silks and cottons; the main street, Johri Bazar, runs off to the right. Along here are local dhurrie shops such as Damodar Das Mammo Mal's on the left, men's cloth shops where locals meet to gossip over tea, photographers to hire for special occasions, shops selling glitzy braid and other essential wedding accessories, carts loaded with fresh walnuts or crispy gujak, shoe shops (a major Agra trade) and, on the right, a wonderful shop packed with fancy walking sticks. Further on, Kinari Bazar has the jewellery shops, while Panni Gali off it (found with difficulty via Fulati Guli) has Agra's top master of zari (gold) embroidery work, Sham Uddin. He and his craftsmen work in his family haveli (his name is on the door) with the family pigeons strutting about the roof. Back towards the Jama Masjid, a lane to the left leads eventually to Malka Bazar, street of the great kite-makers, such as Sando and Allo Jamalo, whose creations are flown by children from the flat roofs, fluttering until they are trapped in a tree. Another good area to explore is Nai ki Mandi, found north-west of Jama Masjid and across Hing ki Mandi Road. Here shoemakers work in tiny kiosks, women pile up water-pots to dry beside the canal, cows stand motionless mid-lane and marble craftsmen work quietly behind the old carved doors piercing the whitewashed walls of the narrow lanes. Marble Inlayers Descendants of Taj Mahal Craftsmen Nai ki Mandi is an area north of the Jama Masjid in old Agra. The narrow whitewashed lanes are punctuated by high stone steps leading to blue-painted doors. Behind many of them, groups of Agra's 5,000 pietra dura craftsmen sit on the courtyard floors quietly creating delicate floral patterns like those worked by their distant forefathers for the fort and the Taj Mahal. Mohammad Naseem, a Muslim like most marble workers, is a master crafts-man who runs a typical workshop. His dozen craftsmen work in the shaded, blue-pillared courtyard of his family haveli. He hopes his sons will follow his trade. An apprentice begins young, at eight years old, becomes full-time when schooling ends at 14, and is trained by 20-22 years old. The trained craftsman specializes as a marble-cutter, gem-cutter, gem-setter or chiseller, making his own simple tools and helping his master with special pieces. The expensive raw materials are supplied to the head of the workshop by the merchant. The hard, non-porous (and so non-staining) white marble comes from Makrana, near Jaipur. The precious and semiprecious stones come from all over the world and include turquoise, coral, pink rhodonite, golden tiger eye and the rare, gold-speckled blue lapis lazuli. Naseem's work is distinguished by the fine chrysanthemum designs with feather-light petals. He uses coral, turquoise and malachite for their purity of colour, and lapis lazuli for its colour and luminosity. Such fine work, originally introduced from Persia, takes time and considerable patience. First, the paper design is agreed upon between craftsman and merchant. The marble is cut, coated with red water-based paint and the design drawn through. The stones are selected for colour and clarity—a green might be of jade, malachite, variscite or amazonite. Then the slow precision work of cutting each stone and chiselling a bed for it begins. A large design is tackled by area, a small piece in one go. Big flowers are cut first, such as the fine chrysanthemum petals; Naseem often works with the hard and difficult lapis and cornelian because of the glorious finish they give. Each stone is cut, fitted, fine-tuned with an emery paste wheel and then glued and heated to fuse the stone. Leaves are done next, and finally the stems. To finish, the surface is polished with increasingly fine emery. To make a large tray adorned in multi-coloured flowers takes three workers about six months, working 9 am-9 pm except on Friday, the Muslim holiday. A small box takes ten days, and the top of a box about three. The master craftsman oversees and checks each piece, for it all goes out under his name. Such painstakingly slow work means it takes about 25 Agra workshops to keep Sttbhash Emporium in Gwalior Road well stocked. And when you go to browse and, inevitably, to buy, the Hindu family of Bansal brothers who run Subhash will show you some of Naseem's award-winning pieces. For more info on sightseeing in Agra contact Swan Tours, One of the leading travel agents in India promoting tourism in Agra , Jaipur and Delhi.
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